Author(s)

Mohamed Softa¹, Percoco Giuseppe², Almeida Scalvino Stéphanie², Peno-Mazzarino Laurent², Pauline Bony¹, Lati Elian²

¹INDERMA dermatological laboratory, Ivry sur Seine, France.
²BIO-EC laboratory, Longjumeau, France.

Background: The skin is the outer shell of the mammalian body and it is continuously exposed to a large spectrum of external stimuli including sun irradiation and atmospheric pollutants. These factors present deleterious effects on the cutaneous compartment by altering the skin barrier functions and accelerating the aging of the skin. Objectives: The goal of this study was to investigate the activity of Seaberry and Water Lily extracts, here called Dermina complex, against different external stresses. Methods: Human skin explants were exposed to different stimuli including delipidation by organic solvents, blue light, atmospheric pollutants and UV-A. The activity of the Seaberry and Water Lily extracts was assessed by immunohistochemistry and by biochemical assays. Results: We showed that Dermina complex prevents the delipidation-induced filaggrin decrease, suggesting that these plant extracts exhibited barrier function protecting properties. Also, we observed that Dermina complex showed an antioxidant and DNA protection activity by decreasing the activated form of Nrf2, the oxidized proteins and the formation of γ-H2AX induced upon stress conditions. The Dermina complex also decreased the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1 alpha released in the culture medium following atmospheric pollutants and UV-A exposure confirming its anti-inflammatory activity. Moreover, Dermina complex reduced the blue light-induced overexpression of opsin 3, indicating that its skin protection activities may be due, in part, to filter property against environmental stresses. Conclusions: Dermina complex shows a protective activity of the skin against different environmental stresses and these extracts may be able to slow down the aging process of the cutaneous compartment.

Exposome, Environmental Pollution, Blue Light, Oxidative Stress, Plant Extracts, Skin Explants

Softa, M. , Giuseppe, P. , Stéphanie, A. , Laurent, P. , Bony, P. and Elian, L. (2019) Seaberry (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) and Water Lily (Nymphaeaceae) Extracts Protect Human Skin against Blue Light, Environmental Pollutants and UV-A Irradiations in an Ex Vivo Model System. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 9, 244-262. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2019.93022.