Author(s)

Mohamed Softa^1*, Giuseppe Percoco², Elian Lati², Pauline Bony¹

¹INDERMA Dermatological Laboratory, Ivry sur Seine, France.
²BIO-EC Laboratory, Longjumeau, France.

OBJECTIVE: The skin interacts strictly with the surrounding environment. Despite an efficient system of protection, its integrity is continuously assaulted by a massive group of external stresses. UV irradiations represent one of the most harmful factors for the cutaneous tissue. Both UV-A and UV-B can induce deep modifications of the different layers of the skin, including a weakening of its barrier function properties, DNA damages and degradation of the extracellular matrix. The aim of this project was to assess the UV protection activity of two natural compounds, the birch sap from Betula alba and organic extract from Inonotus obliquus (chaga mushroom) used separately or in a complex. METHODS: The anti-oxidant (ROS and MDA quantification, catalase and SOD activity measurement), anti-inflammatory (IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, TNF-α and INF-γ dosages) and the DNA protection/repair activities (DNA lesion site analysis) of birch sap and chaga mushroom extracts tested separately or in a complex containing organic birch sap 5% and Inonotus obliquus extracts 2% were evaluated in vitro after exposure of cultured keratinocytes and fibroblasts or reconstructed epidermis to UV-A/UV-B irradiations. RESULTS: We observed that birch sap from Betula alba and extracts from Inonotus obliquus prevent the formation of ROS and decrease the oxidative stress induced under UV irradiations, suggesting a strong anti-oxidant activity. In addition, the tested products showed an immunomodulatory effect by reducing the quantity of pro-inflammatory cytokines upon UV irradiations. UV-induced DNA damages of keratinocytes were also reduced by birch sap and chaga mushroom extracts. CONCLUSION: Here, for the first time, we have shown the photo-protection activity of extracts obtained from Betula alba and Inonotus obliquus mushroom on skin cells exposed to UV-A and UV-B irradiations. Due to their anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and DNA protection/repair activities, the tested products represent promising candidates in the development of cosmetic products with anti-photo-aging activity.

Birch Sap, Chaga Mushroom, UV Irradiations, Oxidative Stress, Photo-Aging, Natural Compounds

Softa, M. , Percoco, G. , Lati, E. and Bony, P. (2019) Birch Sap (Betula alba) and Chaga Mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) Extracts Show Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and DNA Protection/Repair Activity In Vitro. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 9, 188-205. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2019.92016.